The Process of Turning Hemp Fiber into Apparel

There are multiple harvesting and processing stages before hemp fiber becomes a finished apparel product. On the path toward becoming a finished apparel good, hemp fiber generally must pass through the following steps: 

1. Harvesting: The first step in the process is the harvesting of the hemp plant. The plant is typically harvested when it reaches maturity and the fibers have developed. 

2. Retting: After harvesting, the plant is left to dry for a short period of time, and then undergoes a process called retting. This involves soaking the stalks in water or leaving them in a field to rot, which breaks down the pectin and lignin in the plant, allowing the fibers to be separated from the stalk. 

3. Decortication: The process of mechanically removing the outer layer of the hemp stem, or bast, from the inner woody core, or hurd. This can be done using a variety of methods, such as breaking or crushing the stems, or by using a specialized decortication machine that strips the bast fibers from the hurd.

4. Scutching: Once the fibers have been separated from the stalk, the next step is to remove any remaining plant material. This is done through a process called scutching, which involves beating the fibers with a wooden or metal tool to remove the remaining bark and plant material. 

5. Degumming: Degumming is a process used to remove the natural gums, waxes, and pectins from hemp fibers. These substances can make the fibers difficult to work with and can affect the quality of the finished textile product. In the degumming process, the hemp fibers are immersed in a solution of water and a mild alkaline agent, such as sodium hydroxide, for a period of time. This breaks down the gums and waxes in the fibers, which can then be washed away with water. After the initial degumming process, the fibers may be washed and rinsed multiple times to remove any remaining impurities or residual chemicals. Degumming can improve the appearance and texture of the hemp fibers, making them softer and more pliable. It can also improve the performance of the fibers in textile production by making them more uniform and easier to spin into yarn or thread. Degumming is often used in conjunction with other processing techniques, such as cottonization or retting, to produce high-quality hemp fibers that can be used in a variety of textile applications, including clothing, home textiles, and industrial fabrics. 

6. Cottonizing: To cottonize hemp fiber means to treat it with a mechanical process that transforms the rough and coarse hemp fiber into a softer and more cotton-like texture. The cottonization process involves passing the hemp fibers through a series of machines that use a combination of heat, moisture, and mechanical pressure to break down the natural lignin in the fibers, which makes them more flexible and easier to spin into yarn or thread. During the cottonization process, hemp fibers are first opened and cleaned to remove any impurities or debris. Next, the fibers are passed through a series of rollers and blades that break down the natural bonds between the fibers, making them more pliable and easier to work with. This process can be repeated multiple times, depending on the desired level of softness and texture. The resulting cottonized hemp fiber is softer, smoother, and more versatile than non-cottonized hemp fiber.

7. Hackling: After scutching, the fibers are combed through a process called hackling, which removes any remaining impurities and helps to align the fibers in a parallel direction. 

8. Carding: Carding is a process used to align and blend fibers into a continuous strand of fiber called a sliver. It is an important step in the preparation of hemp fiber for spinning into yarn or thread. During the carding process, the hemp fibers are first cleaned and opened to remove any impurities or debris. The fibers are then passed through a machine called a carder, which uses a series of wire teeth or cylinders to align the fibers in a parallel direction and remove any remaining tangles or knots. This process helps to create a smooth, uniform sliver of fiber that can be spun into yarn or thread with greater consistency and ease. Carding can be done by hand, using a hand carder or a drum carder, or by machine, using a carding machine. Hand carding is a slower and more labor-intensive process, but it allows for greater control over the alignment and blending of the fibers. Machine carding is faster and more efficient, but may be less precise. Carding is often used in conjunction with other processing techniques, such as cottonization or degumming, to produce high-quality, textile-grade hemp fibers.

9. Roving: Roving is a continuous strand of loosely spun fibers that have been carded and drawn out into a long, narrow ribbon. It is an intermediate product in the process of spinning hemp fiber into yarn or thread. To produce roving from hemp fiber, the fibers are first carded to remove any impurities or tangles and align the fibers in a parallel direction. The carded fibers are then drawn out and twisted to create a thin, continuous strand of fiber. This process helps to further align the fibers and creates a more even and consistent texture. Roving can be produced in a range of thicknesses and weights, depending on the desired end-use. Thicker, heavier roving is often used for weaving or felting, while thinner, lighter roving is better suited for knitting or crocheting.

10. Drawing: Drawing is a process used to align and blend fibers together to create a more consistent and uniform texture. It is an important step in the preparation of hemp fiber for spinning into yarn or thread. During the drawing process, the roving or sliver of hemp fiber is passed through a series of rollers or machines that pull and stretch the fibers to create a thinner, more even strand of fiber. This helps to further align the fibers and remove any remaining tangles or knots. Drawing can be done by hand or by machine. Hand drawing is a slower and more labor-intensive process, but it allows for greater control over the alignment and blending of the fibers. Machine drawing is faster and more efficient, but may be less precise. Drawing helps to create a more consistent and uniform texture in the hemp fiber, which is important for producing high-quality yarn or thread. It also helps to improve the strength and durability of the fiber, making it more suitable for use in a wide range of textile applications. Drawing is often used in conjunction with other processing techniques, such as carding or roving, to prepare hemp fiber for spinning into yarn or thread. 

11. Spinning: The fibers are then spun into yarn or thread, either by hand or using a machine. 

12. Weaving or Knitting: The yarn or thread is then woven or knitted into fabric, which can be used to create a variety of finished apparel goods. 

13. Finishing: Finally, the fabric is finished through a variety of processes, which may include washing, dyeing, and/or printing. This helps to give the fabric its final texture, appearance, and durability.